($93; includes 2% merlot and 1% cabernet franc; mostly from Champoux Vineyard) Deep medium ruby. Very deep aromas of currant, minerals, meat and smoke, with complicating notes of chocolate, tar and pastry dough. Tightly wound, penetrating and powerful, with terrific precision to the flavors of dark fruits, graphite and minerals. A very firmly structured wine that finishes with superb length, verve and grip. A stunning Washington cabernet. Paul Golitzin says to start drinking this in 2010.

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Unlike some minuscule production "cult" wines or luxury cuvees culled from a winery's primary product that have earned perfect scores over the years, Quilceda Creek's Cabernet Sauvignon is the winery's raison d'etre and is produced in significant quantities (3,400 cases in 2002, 3,425 in 2003). For accomplishing this feat the Golitzens should be doubly proud. Darker colored and significantly more powerful than the 2002, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon displays mouth-watering aromatics of black chocolate, sage, and blackberry liqueur. Its awe-inspiring core of cassis liqueur, violets, blueberry nectar, black cherry syrup, and chocolate is immensely muscular yet elegant. Texturally reminiscent of liquid velvet, it slathers the palate with oodles of fruit, displaying unreal depth, balance, and length. Wow! Congratulations Alex and Paul, welcome to the big leagues.

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Richly layered with gorgeous, focused currant, plum and blackberry fruit, shaded with touches of dusky spice and smoky notes from oak, but it's almost subliminal to the harmonious, seamless fruit character. The wine glides over the palate, submerging its tannins to let the flavors soar. 3,400 cases made.

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