($90-$95) Full ruby-red. Expressive aromas of redcurrant, mocha, tobacco, minerals, grilled meat and cigar box. Big, rich, lush and sweet; velvety but with excellent vinosity and snap. A wonderfully solid wine that finishes with huge but thoroughly ripe tannins and rising flavor. A major success in 2003, with the sheer density and richness to develop in bottle for two decades or more.

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This is a brilliantly run property year in and year out, and especially since the mid- to late 1980s has produced one of the top four or five wines made in Pauillac in virtually every vintage. With 13.4% alcohol, the 2003 is one of the most powerful efforts this chateau has ever made. Its dense purple color is accompanied by sweet, jammy creme de cassis notes intermixed with roasted herbs, smoked meats, and chocolate. Although ripe, dense, full-bodied, and moderately tannic, it is silky (because of its low acidity and high glycerin) as well as accessible. It should firm up in the bottle, and be at its peak between 2008-2025.

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Wow. This shows so much ripe fruit and berry character with just the right hint of lead pencil and spice. Full-bodied and very chewy. Big and powerful. Beautiful wine. Superb.

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