($85; a relatively high 14.1% alcohol) Good full ruby-red. Nose suggests a wide range of ripeness: cassis, prune, herbs and minerals, with lower-toned notes of chocolate and smoke; perhaps in a reductive phase of its development. Then plummy, velvety and pliant in the mouth, with plum and smoked meat flavors given shape by sound acidity. Finishes with dusty tannins and a hint of rusticity.

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Not surprisingly, Togni's 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate has put on weight, and is performing even better out of bottle than it did from cask. Its inky/purple color is accompanied by classic aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, black currants, blackberries, dried herbs, smoke, barbecue spice, licorice, and tapenade. The wine is full-bodied, pure, and concentrated, with firmly structured tannin. While our culture prizes immediate gratification, these beauties require bottle age, and I rarely touch a Togni Cabernet Sauvignon before age 8 or 10. The 2003 requires another 7-8 years of cellaring, and should last for three decades or more.

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This wine is a mountain masterpiece with brilliant purple/garnet color. The nose shows aromas of evolving black currant, plum, and bittersweet chocolate, with hints of anise, aromatic dried herbs, and roasted espresso beans. Held together by firm tannins that need 5-7 years to begin resolving; 45 minutes in the glass is suggested before air starts smoothing the angles into soft curves. After being uncorked for 24 hours, it shows an even more evolved character. The palate has remarkable concentration without being overtly fruit-driven. The deep flavors creep into the consciousness subtly and hang on for what seems like a lifetime before slowly ebbing. Smooth essences of French roast merge with licorice soaked black cherry. Make no mistake: this is a wine that needs some serious cellaring.

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