($100-$120) Good deep red. Expressive aromas of currant, plum, tobacco, truffle and smoked meat. Flamboyantly ripe and sexy, with surprising vinosity giving shape to the fleshy flavors of raspberry, smoked meat, tobacco, truffle and minerals. Utterly captivating on the long, mellow finish, throwing off notes of sandalwood, woodsmoke, cocoa and tobacco.

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Named after the first French pope, this brilliant 75-acre estate located just south of the beltway surrounding the city of Bordeaux is planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Produced from yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare, the 2003 is evolved (part of its extraordinary appeal). Complex characteristics of smoke, meat, lead pencil shavings, sweet plums, black cherry liqueur, blackberries, and a hint of espresso are followed by an opulent, full-bodied wine with moderately high but silky tannin, a layered texture, and copious glycerin, which gives it a big, savory, expansive mouthfeel. The finish is long and persistent. This example appears to be on a fast evolutionary track, but it will probably never close down, and should last 15-20 years ... at the minimum.

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Intense aromas of crushed berry, mineral, tobacco and smoke. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and loads of ripe, rich fruit. Goes on for minutes. This is tight and well-structured. 7,080 cases made.

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Dark inky red, right to the rim. Intense, powerful nose with a clear aroma of toast, backed up with rich tarry blackcurrant, toffee and spicy cedar. Delicate entry then explodes on the mid palate. Massive flavours; sweet blackcurrant and smoky cedar, fine dry tannins and a lovely lingering coca-cola character on the finish.