(from Santa Rita Hills fruit bottled at 14.7% alcohol - 245 cases made, $46) A deft touch of oak frames very ripe red and black pinot fruit, tobacco, earth and a hint of anise gives way to very rich, full and sweet flavors that offer solid complexity and a borderline jammy character that is seductive rather than heavy or flat and the only nit is some acidity poking through on the nicely persistent finish. This was vinified with 25% of the stems included and the textural impact of this is interesting as it provides both lift and firmness to the finish, which are positive additions to very ripe wines such as this one. This succulent effort should reward 2 to 4 years of aging.

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($46; from a parcel on richer soil, but planted on the cooler, windier western side of the property) Deep fresh red with ruby highlights. Blacker fruit aromas of blackberry and black raspberry. Intense dark berryflavors offer a sappy quality, with firm framing acidity. Broad and full pinot that coats the entire mouth. At once creamy and fresh. Finishes with firm but fine tannins. I like this!

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My favorite of the Melville Pinot Noirs is the 2003 Pinot Noir Carrie's, which emerges from one of the vineyard's windier, cooler sections. A deep ruby color is accompanied by sweet aromas of ground pepper, black cherries, and raspberries. With intense fruit, a fuller-bodied texture, and fine purity as well as depth, this complete Pinot should drink well for 7-8 years.

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Intense and spicy, with lively wild berry, fresh earth, sage and hints of dusty berry, all adding up to a notably complex and compelling Pinot. The more you drink it, the more it grows on you. 245 cases made.

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