($449-$850) Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving it an even higher score. Interestingly, the IPT here is 65, compared to 67 for the 2005. But this voluminous and powerful wine will be more fun to drink than the 2005 for many years simply due to its sensual appeal, even if the 2005 should ultimately surpass it in verve, minerality and overall aromatic complexity. (Incidentally, Latour's third wine, simply called Pauillac, is extremely good in both 2005 and 2003-the former vintage showing terrific energy and loads of early personality, and the latter fat, round and exotic, with what Engerer described as a "Napa nose.")

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Dark crimson. Glowing. Lovely depth, smoothness and glamour. This is the business! Long and fresh and wonderfully well balanced. (Average group score: 19)

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There are only 10,800 cases (rather than the normal 15,000-20,000) of the 2003 Latour, a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot (13.3% finished alcohol). A prodigious effort, it boasts a saturated purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of smoke, cedar, creme de cassis, flowers, crushed rocks, and blackberries. Massive and multi-layered, with huge richness and low acidity, it is about as unctuous as a young Latour can be. It could be compared to the 1982, but it may be even more pure, at least at this early stage, than that monumental wine. The level of intensity builds prodigiously in the mouth, and the finish lasts nearly a minute. Disarmingly accessible (although analytically the tannin level is high), I suspect it will ultimately shut down, but it was performing impeccably when I tasted it.

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Intense aromas of blackberry, licorice, currant and mineral. Full-bodied, with very well-integrated tannins and a long, long finish. Very refined and beautiful. Goes on for minutes. This reminds me of the fabulous 1996. But even better. 10,000 cases made.

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Deep Blue Baby. Double decanted, at 9:45AM for service at dinner. Light sediment. Aromas did not wait for the glass, came soaring out of the bottle with the cork. Took one sip before rebottling -- black fruit, cassis essence, tar. Sweet nose, huge body and grip. Going to be great tonight and for many nights to come. At dinner, 8PM, first pour is muted, dark and reflective. Clear coating the glass, but very rich in "Napa quality" fruit (but at 13% alcohol) Tannins are ripe, present but very silky. Huge. Delicious to drink, like a top Cab. Then, an hour and a half later, it's a completely different wine, at another level of complexity. Not richer, but more intense and distinct. Floral, pine forest, mint, lingonberry, an utterly captivating nose that stops you dead. Brighter on the mid palate. Mouth watering finish, goes on for 60+ seconds. Not a classic Latour, but certainly an amazing top Bordeaux. Priced like two top wines, don't drink so fast that you miss that second one! Enjoy now with time, or watch the evolution for decades. (97 pts.)