($75) Pretty yellow-green color. Aromas of crystallized fruits, sugar cookie, marzipan, nutmeg and sexy roasted oak. (Kongsgaard describes the 2004 chardonnay as "cookie dough" while this is the "baked cookie." Quite open and wonderfully sweet on the palate, with smoked meat and spice flavors dominating. This is relaxed whereas the 2004 is racy. The 2004 seems more acidic, Kongsgaard agrees, because it has more tannins.

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The 2003 Chardonnay possesses what the French call a gout de petrol, an oily, liqueur of mineral-like characteristic that, along with the honeysuckle and smoky, spicy, rich, marmalade/nectarine-like fruit character produces a profound example of grand cru California Chardonnay that ages well for 7-8 years, possibly longer (I don't know for certain since my allotment is all consumed before that age).

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A fantastic, opulent mouthful of Chardonnay, with complex, concentrated layers of fig, cream, butterscotch and marshmallow, the flavors go on seemingly forever--at least until the next sip. Chardonnay in this style doesn't get much better, and for all its richness and depth, this wine has amazing finesse. 1,200 cases made.

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