($75) Full medium yellow. Pure but initially unforthcoming on the nose; with air this revealed complex notes of pineapple, peach, nectarine, sulfides and nut oil. Then fat, sweet and highly concentrated, with a seamless texture and lush flavors of peach and pineapple. This boasts the enticing sugar/acid balance of the best Kistler bottlings. Impressively long and smooth on the back end. The Cathleen is all from Wente clones, while the Kistler Vineyard bottling includes both Wente and Mt. Eden.

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Named after one of Kistler's daughters, the 2003 Chardonnay Cuvee Kathleen, a selection of the very best barrels from the Kistler Vineyard, is undeniably sexy, full-throttle stuff. About 500 cases of this were made in 2003, and the wine comes across as a combination of the best that California can do with the complexity, minerality, and definition of a French white Burgundy. Very rich tropical fruits intermixed with some citrus oil, crushed rocks, and steely backbone provide a canvas where a large-scaled yet incredibly elegant, complex wine has been produced. This is a beauty, very long, impressive, and noble. It should drink well for 7-8 years.

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Smoky and exotic, with a rich, pleasing mix of ripe pear, fig, sage and hazelnut flavors that are bold and bordering on exotic. Lots of oak influence, but also plenty of fruit to stand up to it. Drink now. 532 cases made.

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still tastes very good!