Medium gold. Incredibly complex bouquet of yellow plum, dried apricot, peach, floral honey, yellow Chartreuse, blonde tobacco and anise (among other things). Deeply concentrated and almost surreal in its expression of honeyed, ripe and dried fruits; its sappy, clinging texture; and its powerful impression of extract. The endless finish is surprisingly bright, with no tiring or cloying qualities. This should be served in homeopathic doses, such is its intensity and depth of flavor.

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The 2003 Hermitage Ex-Voto blanc is the quintessential white Hermitage, a blend of 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne with extraordinary honeyed licorice, quince, marmalade, and truffle notes, an unctuous texture, great purity and richness, and a profound mouthfeel and length. This is extraordinary wine and certainly one of the most profound dry whites I ever tasted. It seems to be set for an amazingly long life.

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Shows the power of the vintage, with thickly layered flavors of dried tropical fruit, plus hints of date, candied citrus peel, paraffin, buttered brioche and bitter almond. The finish is long and structured. This will need some time to resolve itself fully.

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