($91) Saturated deep ruby. Brooding, reticent nose of cassis and kirsch; there's nothing cooked about this one! Then massive, sweet and superrich in the mouth; explodes with exotic ripeness. Intriguing note of graphite. This coats every nook and cranny of the palate and clings and builds on the back end in a way that no other wine of this vintage can match. Huge, sexy and wonderfully lush Fonseca, built for the long haul. As impressive as the best 2000s, and, along with the Quinta do Noval Nacional, is an early candidate for port of the 2003 vintage. (Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY)

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Dark crimson. Lifted, appetising note of putty on the nose. Very round and luscious. Pure pleasure and none of the angularity of some 2003s. But perhaps not as reticent as some vintage Fonsecas. Even a hint of coconut. Finishes just a teensy bit dry.

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Sporting an opaque, black-colored robe with dark purple trim, the 2003 Fonseca Vintage Port exhibits a nose of profound depth. Its sweet black mass of dark fruit and spice aromas leads to a character of immense depth, richness, and weight. Full-bodied, viscous, and almost impenetrable, this dense, backward port is powerful and exceptionally long in the finish. Possibly the most masculine Fonseca I've ever encountered, it coats the taster's palate with licorice, jammy black fruits, and notes of chocolate that last for over a minute. This blockbuster will require at least three decades to fully blossom.

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Lots of grape and raisin on the nose. Full-bodied, chewy and lightly sweet. Serious concentration, with lots of grip on the finish. Just what to expect from a young Vintage Port. 12,000 cases made.

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This is almost a duplicate of the 2000 but not quite as complex. It is crushing my palate with beautiful and expressive primary blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Quite focused and with great balance. It delivers a nearly perfect structure for its age with grippy tannins and ample acidity. I forgot to mention the crazy aromatic mélange with violets, blackberry and licorice. In a word … intense.

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