($67; from Charles Heintz Vineyard) Brooding herbal/minty nose showed a mineral character as it opened, along with notes of pepper and asparagus. Juicy, high-pitched and lightly herbaceous, with an intriguing whiff of green tea. Quite different in texture from the basic RRV bottling: less influenced by oak and more sharply delineated. A bit youthfully green on the end.

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The light gold/green-hued 2003 Chardonnay Isobel offers up aromas of lemon oil, crushed rocks, wet steel, nectarine, brioche, and honeysuckle. Rich, full-bodied, fresh, vivacious as well as long and persistent in the mouth, it should drink well for 5-6 years.

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Ripe and vibrant, with tropical fruit, pineapple, citrus and apple notes, it's remarkably complex and concentrated, yet it retains a lively mouthfeel and ends on a cleansing aftertaste. 476 cases made.

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