2003 Conterno, Giacomo - Barolo (Cascina Francia) Nebbiolo - Italy - Piedmont - Barolo - Serralunga - Red

($90-$100) Good medium red with an amber rim. Fresh aromas of raspberry and nutty oak, with some surprising minerality for the vintage ("but 1997 is more minerally," says Conterno). Fat, sweet and rich if not particularly complex, with flavors of raspberry, strawberry and minerals and an absence of green elements. Still, this does not show the normal verve of Barolo from this estate. The tannins are a tad dry. "Not complex but easy to drink," says Conterno. "It's a nice wine for Barolo beginners." Conterno told me he did not start harvesting nebbiolo in 2003 until October 8, and even then there was only moderate phenolic ripeness.

(from cask) Medium ruby. Not especially expressive on the nose today. Comes across as quite rich, recalling the 2003 Barbera, with plenty of concentrated black fruit, and a soft mouthfeel that finishes with very elegant tannins, although today this lacks the complexity of the very best vintages. Despite the sweltering heat, Conterno waited until October 8th to harvest, and the wine clearly benefits from his patience as this Barolo doesn't show the aggressive tannins of so many other 2003s.

The 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia is a remarkable wine for the vintage. This deep, powerful Barolo reveals awesome richness and an almost liqueur-like quality to its fruit that is balanced by the chalky mineral notes that provide freshness on the finish and help convey an impression of notable balance. In 2003 there is no Monfortino, and the Cascina Francia surely benefits from the addition of that juice which is mostly felt in the wine's depth. Resisting the temptation to harvest too early, Roberto Conterno waited until October 8 to start picking in his Cascina Francia vineyard, long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. He had the benefit of the late September rains that helped restore at least a little freshness to the fruit, and as a result his 2003 Cascina Francia doesn't have the aggressive tannins that plague so many wines. Simply put, this is a stunning Barolo made all the more notable by the challenging conditions the vintage presented.

Shows plum and melon on the nose, with hints of rose and mushroom. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a jammy, coffee aftertaste.