($125) Good deep medium ruby. Aromatic nose offers raspberry, violet, gunflint and pepper. Dense and ripe but dry, with a lovely floral quality permeating the palate. Less complex in the mouth today than on the nose, with firm-edged acidity currently keeping the youthful fruit under wraps. But finishes with fine tannins and impressive length.

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Aubert demonstrates a superb know-how with Syrah. These wines are macerated for 35-45 days, and given frequent pump-overs as well as punch-downs. They are aged completely in French oak. Colgin's 2003 IX Syrah Estate (330 cases) has added considerable complexity and weight since I tasted it last year, becoming very Burgundian in its huge aromatics and opulent, full-bodied power. Aromas of road tar, ground pepper, espresso roast, blackberries, and an exotic floral character emerge from this beauty. Enjoy it over the next 7-8 years.

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Aromas of crushed berry, succulent wild berry, violets and loads of white pepper character turn to a sweet ripeness, folding together in a seamless presentation. The finish is long and lingering, with hints of beef carpaccio, mocha and espresso, and it just keeps getting better. A magnificent wine that makes a huge statement about Syrah in Napa. 313 cases made.

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Clean, perfectly balanced, but meh. Grew in complexity by an order of magnitude while in the glass, but still a hot, fruity/spicy, California syrah.