The white wines in 2003 can either be magic or very bad, said Jean-Louis before he poured this elixir. Pale gold. Dusty and spicy on the nose, with intense licorice, orange peel and mineral tones. Absolutely huge on the palate, with an oily, viscous texture that is shocking. The extract here is almost painful and the richness of flavor utterly compelling. (This clocked in at 16.5% alcohol, with less than 2 grams per liter of acidity.) Thick, buttery flavors of orchard fruits and orange bitters, complicated by minerals and smoke. The floral, honeyed finish won't let up. "You need the type of food your doctor won't let you eat," replied Jean-Louis when I asked him what he would pair this with. "Escoffier cuisine, textured foods, old-style haute cuisine like sauce Nantua, food that needs wine to cut through it."

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Although the amazing 2003 Hermitage blanc possesses 16.5% finished alcohol, it is well-delineated and fresh. The light gold color is followed by beautiful notes of rose petals, honeysuckle, white currants, wax, orange marmalade, and an intense liqueur of stone that is only found in the greatest white Hermitages, Montrachets, and Meursault-Perrieres. Occasionally, some Alsatian wines will reveal this gout de petrol-like taste. Huge and rich, according to Gerard Chave, it may represent a modern day clone of what the 1929 Hermitage Blanc (which is still a great wine) resembled when it was young. This is a must have dry white.

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Offers remarkable focus and purity for the vintage, with streamlined macadamia nut, acacia flower, blanched almond and white peach flavors backed by fine minerality. Long, pure finish just sails on.

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