($320; Giacosa produced no riserva bottlings in 2003) Good medium red. Reticent, brooding nose suggests menthol and mocha. In a distinctly closed and tougher style, with fairly vibrant currant, mocha and menthol flavors currently cut off by firm tannins. This makes the 2003 Asili appear lush and open by comparison. But this rather classically styled Barolo is still a baby.

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The 2003 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto is a fascinating wine. It is classic Giacosa, with a lovely core of sweet roses, raspberries, licorice and menthol that is currently hiding under an imposing wall of tannins. It is also a wine of contrasts, at times open and accessible, at others brooding and shut down. As it sits in the glass the fruit gradually emerges to fill out the wine's structure. It had only improved when I re-tasted it several days after first opening the bottle. That said, it will require further cellaring to soften the tannins, as the wine has shut down considerably since bottling. Made from the heart of the Falletto vineyard, it clearly benefits from the age of the vines in these selected plots.

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A little jammy on the nose, with lots of strawberry. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a long, chewy finish. Slightly one-dimensional now, but should develop wonderfully over time.

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