(from vines of 50 to 94 years of age situated in Epointures, Combe du Dessus and Les Marchais aged in 65% new wood and vinified with 65% of the stems) Ripe but fresh aromas of cassis and violets complement rich, supple and gorgeously intense flavors that just ooze extract with ample Gevrey character and stunning length that displays a subtle touch of wood. This is quite velvety but there is plenty of structure buried beneath the considerable sap. Most impressive at this level.

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($150) Good red-ruby. The wonderfully sweet but fresh nose reminded me of a top Pomerol: black plum, minerals, chocolate and caramel. Compellingly sweet and fat with fruit; flavors of black raspberry and chocolate saturate every square millimeter of the palate. This impressively concentrated village wine has extraordinary weight and sweetness without coming off as cooked or heavy. A great example of the vintage.

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The 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur de Roy Tres Vieilles Vignes (50-95-years old) sports a nose of deeply ripe blackberries. An intense medium to full-bodied effort, its broad personality slathers the palate with black cherries as well as fine tannin. This expressive, persistent effort should be drunk over the next 7-8 years.

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Dark and deep, offering black cherry, black currant and oak spice notes. The tannins are on the dry side, with a green element on the finish. 100 cases imported.

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This villages level Gevrey is made from vines ranging in age from over 50 years to almost a century. About one third of the blend is produced from the oldest vines (over 90 years) at a lieux-dit named Combe Dessous and located beneath the premier cru vineyard Combes aux Moines. The remaining two thirds from 50+ year-old vines comes from a vineyard that abuts Bernard Dugat and Jocelyne Py's home at the top of Gevrey. Yields are kept extremely low. Winemaking is kept as pure and as non?interventionist as possible. Given their hands off philosophy, its not surprising that they bottle their wine without filtration. The 2003 is extremely concentrated, tannic, and masculine. While the tannins are strong they are smooth and reasonably plush. Regardless cellaring this wine for the time it needs to develop has some additional risk due to the persistence of the tannin. Deeply hued with thin lightly colored legs. Almost painfully intense scents of minerals, earth, plum, and smoke. Plenty of acid frames the wine. Very fine length.