($75) Medium ruby. Aromatic, wild nose of game and dark berries. Initially rather ungiving, but then vibrant and juicy in the mouth, with fresh black raspberry and tangy pepper notes. Finishes strong, with good length and solid grip. The vines here are only five years old and yielded just three-quarters of a pound of fruit per vine in '03, according to winemaker Michael Etzel.

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Amazingly supple, graceful and focused, balancing raspberry, blackberry, plum and spicy, smoky elements into a seamless whole, all wrapped in fine tannins and lingering on the finish beautifully.

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Excellent OR pinot. Try Maggie Harrison's Antica Terra, but if you can't get on her list this is very nice!