($56; 16.5% alcohol; tasted from tank prior to bottling) Deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black cherry and black raspberry. Large-scaled and utterly mouthfilling, with a wonderful chocolatey richness leavened by ripe acidity. In fact, this huge wine offers surprising mid-palate delineation offlavor for its outsized ripeness. Finishes with very ripe tannins and excellent length. "It was critical to eliminate the raisins," noted Alban. Indeed, as extravagantly ripe as this is, it's not at all cooked. There's very little grenache from elsewhere inCaliforniawith the saturation of color of Alban's fruit.

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Alban's 2003 Grenache (100% Grenache) tips the scales at 16.2% alcohol. Kirsch liqueur interwoven with flamboyant aromas of smoke, black currants, raspberries, and herbs jump from the glass of this beauty. With fabulous concentration, superb purity, and an opulent, dense, chewy finish, this stunning Chateauneuf du Pape look-alike should drink well for a decade or more.

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Dark-hued, with a complex mix of wild berry, blackberry, herb, tar, white pepper and violet scents, which carry over to the palate. The tannins are firm and chewy, with hints of spice and nuts. Finishes with a long, rich aftertaste. 118 cases made.

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