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International Wine Cellar
Author: Stephen Tanzer
Issue: Issue 122
Knockout nose combines lime, pineapple, apple and wet stone; much more perfumed than the Perrieres. Then plush and very ripe but not at all roasted, with strong stony character and harmonious acidity giving verve to the wine's expressive fruit flavors. I would not be surprised to see this wine close down in the bottle. Finishes broad and tactile, with terrific persistence. A star of the vintage.
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Author: Jancis Robinson
Picked 23 Aug and all was picked by 31 Aug. It had to be Raphael's friends who picked because the regular pickers were still on holiday. Heat spikes rather than drought made this wine. Both leaves and grapes were burnt. The sun was just too strong. Still picked in holiday time. Very small crop. Very low acid so worrying. The juice was the colour of orange juice when pressed. So Jean-François is surprised that the colour of the finished wine is so normal: fairly pale straw. It lacks the ethereal nose of some of the other vintages. Tastes sweet, and rather chestnutty. Flattering but without great structure. Just a little flabby. No residual sugar apparently but it does taste rich - and without great length. Pretty soft - the sweetest of the lot. Definite puppy fat, and 1998 resembles it a bit.
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