(from a parcel of vines that is close to Vaudésir and extends all the way from Grenouilles to the tree line at the top of the hill) A deft and stylish touch of oak blends with pretty, extremely elegant and pure, stony aromas leading to extremely ripe, wonderfully balanced flavors of incredible intensity underpinned by a solid, indeed bracing lemon-infused acidity and an austere, dusty and dry finish. There is real volume here and this is just flat out great with the overall harmony to age gracefully for years.

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($52) Good pale color. A great expression of grand cru soil on the nose: lime, chalk, iodine, mint, toast, smoke, wet stone, mineral salts and honey. Wonderfully rich and lush on the palate, with deep stone, floral and honey flavors given shape and grip by strong acidity. A wine of great texture, purity and persistence, revealing powerful extract on the back end. And a relative value for white Burgundy, as are all of these 2002s: Hervet notes that this is less expensive than Bouchard's Meursault Boucheres, one of that village's lesser premier crus.

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The creamed mineral-scented 2002 Chablis Valmur (domaine) is a light to medium-bodied, feminine wine. Its crystalline character offers flint and seashell flavors that linger in its lengthy finish. This silky-textured, highly focused effort is a candidate for drinking between 2006 and 2012.

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