($35) Deep medium ruby. Sappy aromas of red cherry, black cherry, cranberry and clove. A dense, tangy fruit bomb on the palate, with compelling sweetness and outstanding snap. But still tightly wrapped today owing to its strong acid structure. Finishes very firm, with a captivating floral nuance. The pH here is no higher than 3.4, notes winemaker Ehren Jordan.

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The 2002 Zinfandel Pesenti Estate, from a 50-year old site planted on pure limestone, tastes like a classic Chateauneuf du Pape made from Grenache. The 16% alcohol is well-concealed in this 700-case cuvee. A deep ruby color is accompanied by sumptuous aromatics of kirsch liqueur kissed with melted licorice, pepper, and spice. There is tremendous precision, surprisingly good acidity (thanks to the limestone soils), and a heady, rich, full-bodied, impressive finish. This is the finest example yet fashioned from the Pesenti Estate.

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Aromas of cherry and boysenberry. Vanilla. Silky on the palate. Really nice texture and good length of fruit but hot and a little disjointed on the finish. Maraschino cherry liqueur. Alcohol seems to integrate a little better over time as the wine fleshes out, but the fruit seems less fresh and takes on an over-ripe quality.