Medium saturated ruby-red. Fresh aromas of blackcurrant, graphite, herbs and mocha. Intense flavors of minty blackberry and cedar, complicated by leather and minerals and a hint of tomato paste. This has filled out considerably with time in bottle and now shows less of the green edges that were apparent a few years ago. Another very good example of how lesser vintages of Sassicaia improve markedly with time; I probably underrated this wine in my initial evaluation. Though 2002 was a horrific, rain-plagued vintage, insiders know that it rained less in Bolgheri than in other parts of Tuscany, and to Incisa della Rocchetta's credit, a whopping 40% of the final wine was declassified, so there's less Sassicaia to go around from this vintage.

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Very brisk, smooth, seductive nose. Smart, sweet, nose that convinces the taster, in the way of a Bordeaux first growth, that only the finest French oak has been used. Gentle, winning texture but pretty expensive (£575 in bond per dozen from John Armit). Already a fine and satisfying mouthful displaying mild, Lafite-like charm. There is quality and vigour here and the wine should have a long life. A good wine to counter 2002?s reputation in Italy?

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