($118; a selected vineyard block consisting mostly of 30-year-old vines) Good red-ruby. Roasted redcurrant, mocha, licorice, dark chocolate and menthol on the nose; clearly riper than the regular cabernet. Then big, chewy, broad and deep, with powerful flavors of currant, chocolate, mocha and tobacco, sweetened by oak. Finishes impressively long, with big, broad, horizontal tannins.

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More serious and foreboding as well as opulent and close to full maturity is the sexy, voluptuously textured, deep, concentrated, dense plum/purple-colored 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. Fashioned from the estate's finest Cabernet lots, it possesses terrific ripeness, a silky, plush texture, a big, full-bodied, broad, savory, deep, well-textured mouthfeel, and a 45-second finish. This gorgeous wine will offer both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure for another 12-15 years.

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Mature and drinking well, retaining its rich, seductive style. Complex plum, anise, black cherry, melted chocolate and black licorice flavors are well-centered and spicy, showing a touch of fresh earth. Ends with firm, drying tannins.

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This stuff gets better and better...wonderful expressive fruit tannins softening but still present but moving to the background. Really elegant wine.