($48; Togni's only cabernet release from the 2002 vintage) Full ruby-red. Wild, slightly reduced nose combines plum and smoked meat. Fat, soft and sweet, with fruit-driven flavors of currant, black raspberry, mocha, cedar and graphite. Togni left out all of the press wine, which was especially low in acidity. The resulting wine did not have enough structure to merit bottling under his flagship labe l. Finishes with dusty tannins and a lingering leathery taste. A good wine, but smaller-scaled for a cabernet from this producer and best suited for drinking on the early side.

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As I reported last year, Philip Togni was not satisfied with his 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon. Therefore, doing what he does in other vintages where certain lots are declassified, courageously (and at considerable economic loss) he will only market a 2002 Tanbark Cabernet Sauvignon, which is excellent, possibly outstanding. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a sweet, evolved nose of cedarwood, tapenade, herbs, licorice, incense, and black currants. Enjoy it now and over the next 12-14 years. What I especially admire from the Tognis is their decision to not take advantage of the vintage's lofty reputation (in large measure justified at the top cellars), but rather take a huge financial hit and market the wine under their junior label. This is integrity at its finest, so hats off to the Togni family.

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Chewy and a bit rustic, with firm, austere tannins. It nonetheless possesses a dense, rich, concentrated core of perfumed Cabernet fruit, with layers of currant, cedar, anise, sage and nutmeg. A bit backward now; needs cellaring. 1,500 cases made.

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This is a wine of astonishingly high quality and exceptional value. When Vinfolio offered it in May, 2005 (WSC Issue 5), it quickly sold out. We are fortunate to be able to offer it to you once again. The wine is dark purple/black in the glass with concentrated aromas of black cherry, mocha, and dark chocolate. The balanced, well defined palate introduces a rich mouthful of saturated black fruits, tar, tobacco, and toasty vanilla bean. Anywhere else this wine would be a serious contender for a winery's reserve program, but for Philip Togni it is declassified.

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10 years of age on this has really made this show well. Great dark cherry aromas, mineral, chalk, and great balance. This wine had plenty of life left. Great finish