($65) Subdued, cool aromas of peach, orange rind and crushed stone. Dense, thick, chewy and very ripe, with a strong minerality that's not currently showing in the Mon Plaisir. Very expansive chardonnay with deep spice and mineral flavors and an exotic citrus oil component. Impressively broad and persistent on the back end.

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I was blown away by the 1,480-case cuvee of 2002 Chardonnay La Carriere. This French-styled offering is made from a vineyard planted in soils filled with white volcanic ash, and is aged completely in Louis Latour barrels. It possesses an exquisite liquid minerality as well as gorgeous aromas of citrus oils intermixed with such exotic tropical fruits as guava and passion fruit. Full-bodied, with dazzling palate penetration, fine balance, and an extraordinary, layered, multidimensional feel, this is one of the single greatest Chardonnays I have recently tasted. It is a brilliant blend of French finesse with California power that should drink well for 5-7 years, possibly longer.

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Green apple and green pear and a touch of mint, cedar and tobacco combine in the flavor makeup, with no shortage of rich, complex, concentrated flavors. It's just a bit tight on the finish. A bit more restrained than the other Peter Michael '02s. 1,439 cases made.

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very creamy, drinks like a white burgundy from France. Still drinks well, but a little long in the tooth.