Pale yellow, less green than the last few bottlings. Flamboyant nose offers lemon drop, mirabelle, apricot, coconut and vanilla. Then dense, chewy and surprisingly backward in the mouth, despite its extraordinarily opulent, glyceral texture. Broad and tactile but classically dry, with an almost saline impression of extract. Finishes extremely young, chewy and long, with a lingering salty quality. This will make a perfect ringer in a flight of Burgundy grand crus five or six years down the road.

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There are 500 cases of the 2002 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene, which comes from a parcel of Chardonnay vines made famous by Helen Turley, the Upper Barn/Gauer Ranch, renamed the Alexander Valley Mountain Estate when it was acquired by Jess Jackson. This 2002 exhibits wonderfully buttered orange, brioche, and ripe citrus notes, terrific minerality, and a full-bodied, layered, concentrated, intense style. Like all of these wines, it is brilliantly balanced by zesty acidity that provides a refreshing as well as vigorous personality.

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Very rich