($65) Bright yellow color with a slight haze. Highly complex nose melds fresh pineapple, grapefruit, lemon and crushed stone, all lifted by a strong citrus rind element. Very dense, rich and bright; uncompromisingly dry but superconcentrated and wonderfully nuanced from the start. Offers a superb range of flavors, including grapefruit, stone, lichee, and a delicate suggestion of rose petal, plus hints of exotic fruits. Finishes with youthful austerity and superb grip. Shows the typical viscosity of this bottling, but seems more backward than the 2001 at a similar stage.

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The 2002 Chardonnay Belle Cote (2,780 cases) is a big offering. Filled with pure tropical fruit characteristics, it is a full-bodied, exotic Chardonnay offering up tremendous notes of smoky hazelnuts as well as lychee nuts presented in a ripe, gorgeously balanced style with a decidedly California personality, but with more definition than most California Chardonnays of this size and intensity. It is made primarily from the old Wente clone of Chardonnay planted on clay-dominated soils. It is best drunk during its first 3-4 years of life.

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A rich and deeply flavorful young white, brimming with layers of fig, apricot, honeysuckle and light toasty oak, hazelnut and nutmeg scents, finishing with a long, detailed, mouthcoating aftertaste. 2,682 cases made.

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Excellent Cali chard, ready to drink, for sure.