($75) Good full medium ruby. Dark plum, truffle and buttery oak on the nose. Suave and fine-grained, with enticing flavors of plum and black raspberry. A plump, sexy wine with a long, slow-building finish featuring very fine tannins. This shows a firmer structure than the very good 2001. In fact, this seems more refined, as well as more of a real wine rather than simply a blend made up of declassified fruit, than previous vintages of The Matriarch.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio

Bob Levy refers to the Matriarch Proprietary Red as "our elegant leftovers," a four vineyard blend of juice that did not make the cut for the top wines. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful effort. Sweet black cherry and cedarwood aromas emerge from the medium-bodied 2002 Matriarch Proprietary Red. With a soft, supple texture and an evolved, upfront style, it is ideal for drinking over the next decade. Restaurants as well as consumers who are incapable of deferring their gratification should buy this one by the case.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio

Wonderful aromatics, with rich cassis, kirsch and blackberry. Both intense and concentrated, this shows a suppleness at midpalate that lets the flavors glide across the finish. It ends with excellent structure and a touch of cedar. 1,200 cases made.

Professional content appears courtesy of Vinfolio