($50) Dark ruby-red. Slightly stunted aromas of plum, chocolate, meat, espresso and beefsteak tomato; not showing much primary fruit today. Sweet and plummy in the middle, but youthfully inexpressive and in need of more clarity. Finishes with fairly tough tannins. A distinctly awkward showing: I can't find the cooler site character in this sample.

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Strawberry and cherry jam in addition to some flowers and subtle background oak make an impression in the spicy, rich, seductive 2002 Pinot Noir 7 Mules Vineyard. This is no shy wine with 14.8% alcohol, but that is well-concealed by all the fruit, glycerin, and concentration. Drink it over the next 4-5 years.

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A rich, polished style, with layers of raspberry, blackberry and wild berry fruit, with a racy, exotic, wild side that makes for a fascinating sip of Pinot Noir. Finishes with ripe, fleshy tannins.

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