($160) Good full ruby. Highly aromatic nose of blackberry, black cherry, leather and spices, with complicating mineral, herbal and earth notes. At once creamy and juicy on the palate, with black fruit, mint and earth flavors. Still a bit youthfully brutal on the end, finishing with building tannins.

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The stunning 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is more of a long distance runner. It boasts a dense purple color along with copious notes of graphite, plum sauce, blueberries, black raspberries, wet steel and damp gravel. Deep, full-bodied and powerful, it is quite compelling in its purity, texture and awesome potential. Forget it for another 3-5 years and drink it over the following three decades.

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Firm, dense and tannic, with peppery wild berry, chocolate, peppermint and mocha. You can almost taste the rocks on the finish.

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