($65) Bright, pale medium yellow. Captivating nose combines grapefruit, underripe pineapple, crushed stone and musky baking spices. Then rich and lush yet sharply delineated on the palate, with very dry flavors of pineapple, spices and stone. A very rich chardonnay that's still a bit youthfully subdued. Finishes long, ripe and dry, with a flavor of dusty stone.

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A spectacular offering, the 2002 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard (adjacent to the Kistler winery) tastes like a California version of a great Batard-Montrachet. This dense, rich, layered, multidimensional Chardonnay builds incrementally in the mouth to reveal leesy notes intermixed with liquid minerals, lemon rind, citrus oils, and orange marmalade. Like its siblings, it reveals subtle oak notes along with great purity, tremendous palate presence, full body, and a majestic style. However, patience will be required.

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