($60) Good full yellow. Musky aromas of ginger, minerals and sulfides; distinctly Burgundian. Superripe, dense, chewy and concentrated, with very dry but rich flavors of pineapple, orange oil and hazelnut. This boasts terrific definition and cut. The palate-staining finish is extremely long and subtle, offering a firm mineral edge and a note of charred oak.

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Big, roasted, nutty notes along with orange marmalade, lemon candy, peaches, and exotic tropical fruits jump from the glass of the light straw-colored 2002 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard. This flamboyant, showy effort is the most extroverted of Kistler's 2002 Chardonnays.

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