($65) Bright, full yellow. Leesy aromas of crushed stone, baking spices, orange oil and charred oak, with a suggestion of light sulfides. Fatter on entry than the McCrea or Dutton Ranch bottlings, then big, rich and velvety in the middle palate, but with a firm acid spine. Not yet hugely complex but I like this wine's cooler flavors of pineapple, stone and minerals. Finishes with sneaky length and lingering notes of pineapple, menthol and crushed stone. This, too, seems quite young.

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The light straw/greenish-colored 2002 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard offers up aromas of lemon oil and vanilla custard in a clean, crisp, tart manner. The wine opens in the glass to reveal lemons, orange rind, pineapple, and plenty of rocks and minerals. Fresh, zesty, and exceptionally well-delineated, it is a candidate for 5-8+ years of ageability.

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