($225) Good ruby-red. Soil-driven aromas of black raspberry, currant, violet, minerals, cedar, loam and tobacco. Supersweet, densely packed and creamy, but with a firm underlying spine giving lift to the dark berry, licorice and mineral flavors. This very lush, silky-smooth, three-dimensional wine really coats the entire palate and spreads out on the succulent aftertaste. According to winemaker Philippe Melka, this clay-rich vineyard, with its water-retaining capacity, handled the 2002 heat well.

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Aged 30 months in 100% 3-year-old, air-dried French oak, this wine (which is also reviewed in the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon retrospective elsewhere in this issue) was tasted again for this vertical, and it is pure perfection. It boasts an extraordinary perfume of graphite, cassis, blackberries, creamy white chocolate and subtle smoke. This full-bodied, opulent, heady, rich, voluptuously textured 2002's finish lasts for 50+ seconds. This killer Napa Cabernet Sauvignon should last for another two decades.

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A deliciously complex, enticing style, with layers of creamy currant, mocha, black cherry and blackberry fruit that glides across the palate. Deeply concentrated, it finishes with a wonderful aftertaste that pulls all the flavors together in a neatly tied package. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,100 cases made.

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This is the third vintage of Jayson Woodbridge's uncompromising quest to make the ultimate California Cabernet. With winemaker Philippe Melka (Vineyard 29, Bryant, Lail) as his winemaker, there seems to be no stopping on the road to the top. This wine possesses soaring aromatics, gobs of richness, body and thickness. It is pure hedonistic pleasure. In the realm of wines I review at the pinnacle of perfection, this is arguably the most extreme.

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Wow. Amazing wine. Needed to open over an hour as almost port-like finish and deep berry and cherry flavors. Supple tannins in this wine that is drinking well at 9 and should for a good long time still.