(this vineyard is presently divided into fourths by the Domaine and one section is never used, another is always used and the remaining two are evaluated and added or not as quality dictates) Highly aromatic, indeed almost kaleidoscopic in the sheer breadth of aromas but it's the spice that is so remarkable. The flavors are quite fine with beautiful detail and a drop dead gorgeous velvety texture that is soft in the middle yet quite firm on the terrifically long finish. The overall character here is rather discreet and understated and while there is plenty of character, it's clear that this is built along the lines of elegance and finesse rather than the robust power and punch of the Grands Echézeaux. Moreover, it has put on weight since it was bottled and while it's not quite as good as the '01, it's not far off.

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($550) Good deep red. Sappy black raspberry, strawberry, coffee and earth, complicated by roasted herbs and smoke. Broad and spicy but quite firm; less sweet and open today than the foregoing examples but primary and juicy. Finishes very long, though, with firm, building tannins. (My bottle of the Richebourg was a bit tired in the middle and almost certainly not representative.)

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Mocha, toasted oak, and roasting spices are discerned in the nose of the light to medium-bodied 2002 Romanee-St.-Vivant. Its suave, silky-textured attack reveals impressive black cherry and blackberry flavors intermingled with cafe au lait as well as violets. This light to medium-bodied wine's mid-palate has terrific mouth-feel yet its lengthy finish displays some firm tannin that will require patience.

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Less forthcoming, the RSV delivers floral, cherry, fraises de bois and spice aromas and flavors. Combines finesse and power, with great persistence of fruit showing on the finish. Keeps getting better as the vines get older.âÂ?Â?Non-blind 2002 DRC tasting (February 2005).

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