($200; a blend of 75% shiraz, 20% mourvedre and 5% grenache; like the Emigre, this is 15.5% alcohol and comes from a crop level of barely a ton an acre) Bright medium ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black cherry, chocolate, mocha and woodsmoke. Thick, superconcentrated and dense; fatter than the Emigre but less vibrant, with lower-toned, somewhat saline flavors of berries, chocolate, and nut skin. Finishes thick, nutty and very long, with building tannins. A more massive wine than the Emigre, but I preferred the Emigre. This is the first release for both of these wines, which are made using French methods, and French oak, by Jonathan Maltus (owner of Teyssier, Laforge and Le Dome) and his team from Saint-Emilion. (Commonwealth Wine & Spirits, Mansfield, MA)

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Produced from a dry-farmed, single vineyard of old vine Shiraz (some of which are 120 years old), the stunning, inky/purple tinged 2002 Shiraz Exile was aged in 100% new French oak. A sweet nose of black fruits, flowers, melted licorice, and espresso roast precedes a wine of amazing concentration, compelling intensity, and a tremendous finish of more than 60 seconds. Although expensive, readers must take into consideration the age of the vines as well as the limited production. This exquisite Shiraz is approachable, but promises to hit its peak in 3-5 years, and last for two decades.

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Ripe and generous, teeming with spicy, peppery, slightly earthy blackberry, cocoa bean and tar flavors, finishing with fine texture and sharp focus. Shiraz, Mourvèdre and Grenache. 1,000 cases made.

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