(tasted from a stainless steel tank, where it was awaiting bottling) Medium ruby. Black cherry, licorice, pepper and tar on the nose. Very dry but classy and aromatic, with currant fruit complicated by licorice, pepper, leather and fresh herbs. Rather bracing for a young Chave wine, and difficult to taste after the 2003, but the wine's aromatic persistence suggests it will reward aging. Late notes of pepper and gunflint.

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One of the candidates for the Rhone Valley's "wine of the vintage" is Chave's 2002 Hermitage. A draconian selection has resulted in a deep ruby/purple-colored offering revealing sweet notes of melted licorice, briery berries, earth, and herbs. Medium to full-bodied, pure, elegant, and intense, this forward-styled Hermitage appears to be better than the 1992, 1993, and 1994, which are all fine wines that are holding up well. The 2002 should be at its peak between 2005-2015.

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Alluring aromas of fig, cocoa and dried currant give way to a slightly firm but admirably ripe palate of black fruits, mineral, toast and game. Structured but fine-grained finish. A terrific effort in this difficult vintage. 1,000 cases made.

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Just about ready but with years to go. Robust, more charming than I expected.