($150) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Slightly high-toned, ineffably complex nose combines red and black fruits, smoked bacon, herbs, minerals, licorice, violet and gingerbread-is this syrah or what? Wonderfully concentrated and bright, showing an almost confectionery sweetness to its primary black fruit, brown spice and fruitcake flavors. The wine's great verve and intensity, along with its extraordinary length, suggest that it will enjoy a leisurely evolution in bottle. This wine was bottled in mid-May of this year, which means it spent 43 months in barrel.