($76) Highly complex nose combines pit fruits, pepper, menthol, smoke and flint, with hints of dried fruits. Offers compelling density and concentration of fruit; quite thick but with good verve. A bit youthfully sweet today in this line-up, but this is still a bit disjointed and in need of more time in bottle. Not at all a hugely ripe, botrytized style of Rangen.

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The powerful, virile 2001 Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St.-Urbain (indice 2) explodes from the glass with smoky mineral scents. A wide, dense, concentrated, brooding wine, it is medium-bodied, as well as crammed with pears and minerals. Satin-textured and intense, this exceptional effort is a candidate for drinking between 2004 and 2020.

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Rich and densely flavored with tropical fruit, smoke and mineral, this multifaceted white turns dry and focused on the finish, courtesy of its vibrant structure. It reveals class and a great expression of site, with a long, mineral-infused aftertaste. 500 cases made.

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not as dark as the 2000, and drinks lighter, but still wonderful fruit