($90; from tempranillo vines between 70 and 80 years of age planted at an altitude of 700 meters; aged entirely in new oak, two-thirds French and one-third American) Dark, full red. Raspberry, blackberry, graphite, violet, licorice, game and sexy oak tones of smoke and baking spices on the nose. Supple and sweet if a bit youthfully aggressive, with intense dark berry and coffee flavors complicated by spicy oak and a wild gamey nuance. Boasts very good palate presence and finishes with substantial tongue-clenching tannins and very good length. Isaac Fernandez, enologist for Bodegas Mauro, consults here. (Grapes of Spain, Inc. , Lorton, VA)

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The profound 2001 Palomero boasts an opaque ruby/purple color as well as an extraordinary perfume of sweet saddle leather, smoke, herbs, blackberries, creme de cassis, truffles, and graphite. One of the most prodigious Ribera del Dueros I have tasted, it offers great precision, fabulous concentration, and a long, 40+ second finish.

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Stiff tannins support and rather dominate the black cherry, tobacco and spice flavors in this traditional red. Plenty of concentration, but needs food to soften. 1,990 cases made.

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