($630; for 1.5 liters; from 52- and 55-year-old vines) Good full red. Knockout nose combines red fruits, minerals, brown spices and Cuban tobacco. Not quite velvety but boasts superb minerally depth of flavor, with subtle notes of tobacco, brown spices and dried flowers. Very classy and classic Barolo, finishing with broad, spicy tannins that reach the front teeth. Should age positively for many years and may merit an even higher score.

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The 2001 Barolo Riserva Vecchie Viti dei Capalot e delle Brunate (magnum) has also held up beautifully. It shows the characteristic muscle of these sites. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, mint and eucalyptus flow through to the virile, imposing finish. The wine's intensity and breadth are both deeply impressive.

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This is a full-blown style with masses of ripe fruit and toasted oak. Full-bodied, with very, very chewy tannins and a long, long finish. Slightly exaggerated this year, but clearly outstanding. Needs time to mellow. 200 cases made.

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