($56) Soil-inflected aromas of minerals, iodine and nutmeg. Offers a rare combination of texture, breadth and verve for California chardonnay. Really expansive in the middle palate, with powerful fruit and spice character complicated by a peaty suggestion of Islay scotch. A major mouthful of chardonnay.

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The 2001 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (2,630 cases) reveals a floral, feminine-like, perfumed, stylish nose offering aromas of white peaches, pineapples, honeyed citrus, and background mineral characteristics. Medium to full-bodied, with crisp acidity as well as admirable delineation and palate presence, it should be drunk over the next 2-3 years.

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Serves up a tasty range of complex, concentrated flavors, built around a core of smoky fig and apricot, but also folding in hints of nutmeg, citrus and tangerine, with a long, lively, creamy finish.

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Medium gold colored wine with full aromas of vanilla, lemon, moderately toasty oak, spice, and pear. Good length with toasty banana in the finish. Nicely crafted and controlled flavors of vanilla and amorphous fruit. Drink now.