($115) Saturated medium ruby. High-pitched nose dominated by black cherry and minerals. Then almost shockingly sweet and creamy in the mouth, like an essence of dark mountain berries and bright minerality. Remarkably pure for a wine at this level of density. Finishes with major but sweet tannins that should carry the wine for 15 or 20 years.

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Remarkably, the 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon may be even better. Staggeringly pure notes of creme de cassis, violets, licorice and graphite soar from the glass of this inky/purple-colored wine. Composed of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot, and tasting like it is 2-3 years old, it is a stunningly pure, rich, full-bodied, prodigious example of high elevation mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that will not reach full maturity for another 5-7 years, and should age beautifully for another two decades or more. It is a magical wine to smell, taste and contemplate.

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Robust and concentrated, with chewy tannins along with a wealth of juicy, mineral-laced mocha, blackberry, vanilla and cedary black licorice notes that are youthful and focused. Ends with ripe but quite chewy tannins. 2001 California Cabernet blind retrospective (June 2011). Drink now through 2022. 1,180 cases made.'J.L.

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Consumed over two nights. Fantastic as a pop and pour and even better some air. Massively concentrated, with notes of ultra-ripe cherries, asian spices, red and black fruits, red licorice, cassis, and a mouth-full of tannin. Big and bold now, and capable of another 10+ years.