($150) Deep ruby-red. Aromas of dark berries, spice cake, beefsteak tomato and meat. Suave, smooth, lush and mouthfilling, with sweetly oaky flavors of dark berries, mocha, smoke and game. Generous, pliant wine, finishing with chewy but ripe tannins and lingering sweetness. A return to form after a few difficult vintages for this bottling.

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Performing better than it did eight years ago, the 2001 Opus One reveals a classic, French-like style with notes of cedar wood, melted licorice, black currants, roasted herbs and tobacco leaf. While not one of the stars of the vintage, it is a medium to full-bodied, outstanding effort that has reached full maturity. It should continue to drink well for another decade or more. This was a reassuring showing, although vintages over the last five years have been stronger and more powerful, with greater aging potential than the 2001.

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Scents of red currant, red licorice, wild berry, sage and fresh earth fold together nicely in this ripe, intense, tightly wound young Cabernet. Well-focused, deep and complex, with dry, earthy tannins on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 20,500 cases made.

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Classic, lush and forward, it rivals the 1998 for approachability. Hints of licorice, black cherry and sandalwood make for a delicious release.

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