($95) Deep, bright ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, roasted cassis, licorice, pipe tobacco and smoked meat. Dense, rich and sweet, with flamboyant flavors of cassis, licorice, leather, game and black tea. As extracted and high in alcohol (15.1%) as this is, its lovely ripe acidity somehow keeps it fresh and gives it shape. Finishes very long and sweet, with suave, melting tannins. Very impressive California cabernet, and a wonderful example of the vintage.

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A superb effort from then-proprietor Mark Herold and his former wife, Erika Gottl, the 2001 Merus reveals an opaque purple color along with an extraordinary bouquet of camphor, graphite, blackberries, blueberry liqueur and subtle oak. It has resolved most of its tannins and is now a full-bodied, concentrated, well-balanced, impressively endowed stunner that has hit its plateau of full maturity where it should remain for another 10-15+ years.

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Has gained with age; still big, bold, ripe and expressive, with tiers of juicy plum, blackberry, chocolate brownie and espresso, yet for all its girth it's elegant and graceful, ending with a touch of kirsch. 2001 California Cabernet blind retrospective (June 2011). Drink now through 2019. 650 cases made.

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