(this was also concentrated by 4 to 5%) A complete register change with a decidedly different aromatic expression of austere, understated yet high-toned and very ripe red and black fruits trimmed with earth and a trace of oak spice followed by round, rich, supple flavors that offer good complexity but finish with the same austerity displayed on the nose. Backward but not hard and as one would expect from a young Clos de Vougeot from a tight vintage, this will require 7 to 10 years to begin drinking well.

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($160) Good red-ruby. Musky, expressive nose melds black cherry, minerals, smoke and animal fur. Fat, rich and broad, but with restrained sweetness; possesses more stuffing for its tannins than the Corton. In fact, the finish is impressively broad and suave. Nicely balanced Clos Vougeot.

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Blackberries and cassis can be discerned in the nose of the big, bold 2001 Clos Vougeot. An inky, enormously deep, medium-bodied wine, it slathers the palate with intensely flavored black cherries, a myriad spices, juniper berries, toast, and hints of licorice. Powerful, fleshy, and fresh, it has a sumptuous finish that exhibits some road tar-like flavors.

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Exotic and seductive, a full-bodied, dark-colored, fabulously aromatic wine. Plenty of floral, blackberry, black cherry, cassis and wild raspberry flavors along with some subtle oak and mineral. Long, balanced finish.

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Round with finesse, a touch of nervosite, excellent, even at 11 years.