($65) Meursault-like aromas of oatmeal, lemon and spices. Offers a much sweeter impression on entry than the McCrea or Dutton, then more mid-palate fat. Continues with Meursault-like flavors of oatmeal, lemon and nuts. But this tactile, chewy wine, despite showing less obvious acidity, is also classically dry. Still a bit youthfully unforthcoming on the back end, but showing excellent length.

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The sensational 2001 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard's light gold color displays a greenish hue, and the bouquet is reticent, offering up notes of minerals and citrus oil. With excellent acidity, abundant minerality, and a long, concentrated finish, this tight but promising 2001 tastes like a grand cru Chablis mixed with a grand cru Cote d'Or white Burgundy. It should drink well for 5-7 years.

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Excellent fruit, subtle, minerality, acid structure well integrated