($50) Exotic fruit aromas of pineapple and mango, along with sweet butter, oak and spices on the nose. Dense, fat and silky, with flavors of pineapple, coconut and game. Rather exotic, oaky wine with an impression of full alcohol. But sweet and nicely layered.

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The 2001 Chardonnay South River is typically California, offering sumptuous quantities of buttered popcorn, smoke, tropical fruit, and lusty glycerin, all buttressed by zesty acidity and subtle, toasty, new French oak notes. The finish lasts for 30 seconds ... impressive by California Chardonnay standards. About 40% new French oak casks are used for these Chardonnays, which are aged on their lees and are bottled unfiltered.

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