($45) Ripe but brooding aromas of orange, tangerine, talc and gingerbread; showed a pineapple note as it opened in the glass. Silky, broad and rich; expands nicely in the glass. Chewy and full but light on its feet. Starts slowly and builds nicely. A supple, generous chardonnay with considerable early appeal.

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The spectacular 2001 Chardonnay River Block is reminiscent of a Chassagne-Montrachet grand cru from Bernard Morey. Honeyed citrus, broad pineapple notes, subtle smoke, and a liquid minerality soar from the glass of this extroverted, rich, classy, well-delineated, full-flavored Chardonnay. Rochioli's Chardonnays offer undeniable pleasure as well as terrific complexity and definition.

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