($32) Good medium ruby. Perfumed, Northern Rhone-like aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, gunflint, smoke and pepper. Brooding and ripe, with pure, firm-edged flavors of dark berries, meat and pepper. A densely packed wine that's distinctly unyielding today and needs patience.

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The 2001 Syrah Cailloux-Coccinelle comes from an interesting vineyard planted in a rocky riverbed. It reveals a broodingly dark purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of bacon fat, black pepper, black fruits, and licorice. This is a hulk of a wine with full-bodied, powerful flavors that reveal surprising integration of acidity and tannin. Large-scaled and long, drink this impressive Syrah over the next decade.

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Bright and juicy, with plum and berry flavors, balanced by lively acidity as the flavors linger enticingly on the finish. 243 cases made.

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